1981 portable vcr raspberry pi media centre
The 2300 H portable vcr I have modified-
Now, at the heart of it is Raspberry Pi, running excellent raspberry media center software.
Other upgrades include funky arduino-
Based on the clock and EL wire \"tape\", pop up to show the slot of the powered USB hub.
The original button is used for various functions, with an integrated 15-inch HD screen on the back and a clear access panel on the side to display the Pi.
Back in June I bought this unusual old VCR from ebay for £ 6 with the aim of making it a special product for my first Raspberry Pi project --
I don\'t know how long and complicated it would be to build it, but this is my favorite bike project so far.
Remote control via standard media center (or mobile app)
And play content through BBC Iplayer and Youtube WiFi, as well as internet broadcasts and files from local networks or USB storage.
Lots of photos-
There\'s also a video recorder running shortenjoy!
VCR was in a damaged state when I bought it, so I\'m not sad about removing it --
I do need to be cautious, though, because I always want to keep some of the features and features of the original.
In this case, this is the pop-up mechanism I want to keep at all costs, I remember the top
Loads my childhood video recorder very affectionately
Huge, noisy and pop-up tape with a certain amount of violence
But magically hold the comic for 3 hours!
Like most of the techniques of this period, it is screwed together, bolted together, and separated very well, showing a large number of components tightly packed on large boards.
These components are obviously replaceable and, while complex, you can see how to replace a single component or motherboard to keep it running.
There are also a few heavy-
Working motor, solenoid, lever, etc, and meters of internal wiring, some of which I re-used.
The housing on the front and back holds fewer elements and is easy to disassemble, leaving behind a central plastic structure that contains an aluminum chassis with switch boards arranged continuously on top.
I carefully disconnected and stripped all components other than the tape cage and the pop-up mechanism and moved from vandalism to the head --
One of the first jobs is to make sure the pop-up mechanism works.
Some of these old video recorders have a mechanical button that just releases a spring
But I think this is to convert a soft button with a solenoid.
Spit out the tape hard.
What gets stuck through the chassis is a small latch that somehow needs to move about 10mm in order to release the tape.
I tried it again for the first time
Use some of the original solenoid, but keep the voltage quite low and these do not have enough grunt sound to turn it on.
Looking at my discarded zeroes, I found a small mechanism made up of motors, worm wheels and gears, which proved to be ideal.
The worm wheel means that the motor cannot be pushed back by the pressure of the latch and works well from the 9 v battery.
In order for it to move the latch, I removed one of the gears, removed most of its teeth, left a rotating arm mounted next to the latch, and tripped it when the gear rotated.
To get this done, the motor and gears need to be installed very precisely, so I made a stand from meccano to fix it firmly on the metal chassis.
In contrast, the wiring of the pop-up button itself is easy --
All boards have been commented on, so it\'s easy to wire in some flight leads and isolate the push switch from the rest of the circuit.
I have always liked the computer in the media center and have been using Windows XP MCE and MediaPortal for years --
I particularly like the latter because it is open with so much customization and community support --source.
Some commenters on my previous instructures mentioned building Raspberry Pi into a project, but I didn\'t take the Pi option seriously until I looked into it in more detail --
Of course, such a small thing can\'t provide the same performance as a \"proper\" PC, and it must be hard to learn from scratch, right?
Within about an hour of my B-type Pi arriving at the post, I was shown to be wrong in both!
Initially, I wasn\'t very interested in programming, so just installed the latest version of raspbcs as per the basic instructions --
XBMC version specifically for Pi.
I was pleasantly surprised by the maturity of this media center software, the intuitive interface, it played all my video content well, and out of the box with an IR receiver in one of my old Windows media center projects.
I \'ve tried settings and skins for a few days and ended up with a small and efficient engine for this VCR, which is really simple.
I decided to install the board inside the chassis for easy access and luckily there was a handy Pi-
The dimension gap left by the discarded side connection panel.
When it was installed on the VCR chassis and worked happily with the TV and the IR receiver, I went on to do something that wasn\'t that easy.
I mentioned earlier that it is necessary to keep the pop-up feature in this release, so I started thinking about what pops up and how to match the overall design.
Something built into the old VHS tape is the obvious answer --
I discussed plugging Ethernet or power plugs into the tape or having the tape contain a portable hard drive, but I decided to install a USB hub with power.
Even with the four USB ports of Model B, I\'m running a bit short and I \'d like to be able to plug in a self
There is no need to worry that the PI has enough power to run the USB hard drive.
I got an old USB hub from a dump cabinet in the car trunk for £ 1 and soon I found a power brick in the \"just in case\" drawer in the workshop.
It is easy to break, it is easy to fix it on the removed VHS tape and the cables flow out from the underside of the tape so they are hidden.
Next, I dug a hole in the USB socket, which is very tedious work --
Thankfully, the old VHS tape was easy to get because I wasted some of it in the process.
It needs more stuff though, and I thought of making a \"tape\" with EL wire so it glows or flashes fine in this case.
I used to love doing this with tapes and it didn\'t take too long
The hardest part is to unlock the endless VHS tape!
I cut off the tape spindle so that there is enough gap on the installed USB hub circuit, leave a small lip to wrap the EL line and stick it together every turn, to keep it in place. I used Orangy-
Red EL wire consistent with the overall \"raspberry\" theme.
With EL wire and hub, the tape is screwed together and I have created some tags on the PC to fit the whole theme, including Pi, raspbcs and carbon frog (
People who make clocks)logos.
It\'s a nice little project, I put it aside after it\'s done, take a deep breath and attack the VCR button.
I always like to use the original controls as much as possible in my project, I am embarrassed to select the button on this VCR and I am looking forward to this possibility.
I first remove the two button circuits from the housing and then draw out which wires with 5 v LED and breadboard to label them as I go.
This is a great help for the board with good reviews, showing the switch name and cable route on it.
The circuit is simple enough to basically have only one cable per button and a shared negative connection.
This is the beginning of trouble!
I want to use as many buttons as possible for media control (play/pause etc)
Raspbs\' navigation and other functions such as TV, EL wire, led, etc.
To do this, I thought I could eat an old USB keyboard, connect the connector with a cable and leave --
It does not really solve the problem.
First, I cut an old flexible USB keyboard that holds the button cable to the connector that is often in contact when the key is pressed so that the VCR button can send the keystrokes to the Pi, it can then be mapped to the control function.
This has reached a point, but the number of connections (
16 buttons, 32 cables)
It means it takes a long time to assemble.
After testing with PC, I found that the connection is not as reliable as I would like (
I tried everything from binding, poking holes, paper clips and hot glue to the geomag magnet to the keyboard! ).
I gave up on the keyboard because it was too complicated in the end
Too much wrong-
Instead, I thought maybe I could imitate the keyboard with arduino uno.
With this idea and doing a bit of research, I realized that the Pi itself has a set of GPIO pins that might be used to connect directly to the VCR button.
It took me a long time to try various options and learned a lot about the GPIO pin, pull
Resistors and stuff, and very close to a solution for Pi code called Pikeyd, but ended up hitting a brick wall with it.
Next, I tried an Adafruit Trinket, a small-
The micro controller, but after a lot of time modification, it only provides a few input buttons.
I had similar luck on the USB game board I was lying on.
It\'s been a few weeks so far and the rest of the project, case, TV etc are close to completion, so I decided to make-or-
Break the button!
Thinking that the finished product and other components were almost ready, I took a step back and realized that the space in the box would be much more important than I thought.
Also, having a complete set of navigation and control buttons on the VCR itself is actually of limited use, as these buttons are geared away from you when viewing the screen!
I decided to try to save some basic features for the last time (
Play/pause, rewind and fast forward)
And work with the circuit of one of the most humble creatures on Earth
USB mouse from a store.
The mouse is very easy to disassemble, I connected the left, right and middle click the VCR button in the switch.
Then all I need to do is edit an XML file called keymaps on the Pi. xml -
This tells the Pi what function to perform, for example, I map the left-click to the rascml function for rewind, map the MiddleClick to play/pause, and right-click to move forward quickly.
I left all the wires on the other buttons marked with labels and hid them in the case so I could revisit the other options later if needed.
The most time to sort buttons --
Consumed and frustrating parts, and in the end I made a compromise to keep going and keep it fun.
I did manage to get the VCR button to control the on/off of EL wire, led, pop-up and TV, so in the end I was happy with how it worked.
The idea of having a TV screen built into the back of the VCR is one of the reasons to put it at the top of my project list because it makes real functionality from the unit\'s quirky design.
I managed to get a high definition TV.
Prepare a £ 5 TV in the car trunk, HDMI input for the Pi, but no cable or remote control, which is perfect for me!
While having the raspbs side work, I kept it in its original state and removed it once the button issue was resolved.
It is divided into three main internal components: screen, power board and control board with various inputs.
I should have said in front, from this point on, I didn\'t plug it into the power supply until it was installed into the box, safety first!
The screen panel proved to be very lucky to fit the back of the case, leaving only about 20mm of the \"border\" on the side \".
I cut the holes in the back cover with a jigsaw puzzle and then clean the rough edges with a rotating tool and sandpaper.
I also need to cut some plastic off the inside of the case to keep the panel flush.
Luckily, there is about 2mm spare space on both sides of the screen assembly, which means I can fix it using the original flat stand.
Next, I took an old plexiglass and made a stand for the TV control panel, mounted on the back of the LCD panel.
The power board is a few millimeters too thick to fit next to it, so I had to find it under the Pi of the main \"business\" section of the VCR.
I did not understate this because it meant that the backlight cable of the TV had to be extended and a box was built around the circuit to protect anyone who held out their fingers in the box --
At this point I still see the end and I know what gaps can be used.
I was surprised to work after opening it, I removed the whole assembly and was ready to draw.
I used the USB Microsoft Media center receiver and remote control when installing the rasperipheral software and it worked really well and I decided to build it into the final design.
I took the receiver apart first and exposed a small circuit with a convenient slot on it, which I used to fix on the box under the TV panel.
I made a hole in the box with a rotating tool, sorted it out with a small file and finished the work!
So I thought-
When I look at this case again and lack of free space, I realize that
Up cable for infrared sensor must go-
About 2 metres long!
I cut it up and cut it down to about 20 cm, saving a lot of space.
The clocks in these old clocks
The style video recorder is very iconic to some extent, and I think for many families this is the first digital clock to appear in the front room.
You have to plug the machine in, otherwise the clock will reset automatically and screw up your timing recording, so, we often put a cushion in front of it when we leave the house, that way the thief wouldn\'t see the LEDs glowing and wouldn\'t know we had the video!
I started this project in August, and every week I had a replacement clock on my car trunk shopping list, but none of the digital clocks I saw really jumped on me.
However, in September, we went to Brighton mini-Maker Faire, one of the stalls with people from carbon frogs --
They had a bunch of these clocks on their table, and while I was a little worried about its size, I knew it would be perfect and I had to have a perfect souvenir of a great day.
Their matrix clock is arduino-
Based on, and has a series of built-in conversions that are displayed on minute changes.
The default is a \"matrix\" style of green rain, my current favorite is just a simple wipe from left to right, but at some point I would like to create a pac-
Man, this is my own design so you can modify the firmware and have a good documentation.
The transparent panel of the original clock was too small to peek at the matrix clock, but it was useful that the panel had just been coated with perspex so I was able to scrape off the black paint to zoom in on the clear part
I scraped a bit too hard in some places, but it looks good!
You can cycle the transition effect of the clock by pressing the button switch on the side of the clock, in order to keep this function in the build, I need to make a button to connect and connect to it through the VCR chassis.
I did the whole thing with a promo pen, using the pen\'s tap as a button, connecting it inside with a refill, a spring, and chopped stuff
Under the pen, a hole was drilled in the box to let the Click poke in.
How can I power all separate parts of this project?
I want to take a plug out of the VCR, but I don\'t want to get too much with mains.
Finally, I sacrificed the space in the box and used the standard 4-
Ways to expand leadership.
This gives me all the power options I need (
TV, Pi, power hub, matrix clock)
If I need more space.
I have significantly shortened the extension cord and connected it to a fusion socket, as you get on PC power --
I think if we take it away while on vacation, forget the power leads that are easy to find in most places.
It also provides a main power switch outside the housing, which I like very much.
After the welding is done, I insert and nervously (
Sometimes I use a stick)switched on -nothing!
Tried another thread and there was nothing.
When I read on the product site that the socket has a fuse space but there is no fuse, I was about to fix the whole thing.
I look around the workshop for fuses but they are all standard sizes and this one needs a smaller interior type
I found one on the abandoned VCR circuit and once connected it works fine.
I want to keep the case fairly neat so no extra buttons are added except the clock.
The main thing is the work on the shell is to make holes for the Bolts in the part, but I did make a good inspection panel for the side, showing the Pi board.
I did this to fully fit the holes left by the original connection panel, scoring from an old screen glare protector and capturing a little bit of plexiglass, which is new to me.
Perspex was screwed onto two plastic brackets, which I made with a handy broken VHS tape.
I set a surface.
The LED mounted on the top bracket illuminates the Pi, but while assembling the case, it manages to fry the Pi!
Thankfully, perspex can be easily screwed down and this is a quick solution the next time I travel to mappers.
All the holes were cut or drilled and now it\'s time to paint so I stripped the parts out and cracked.
Even though I did a thorough sanding and skim, the \"use plastic directly\" paint was not used, so I first applied a primer, which I might have been doing in future buildings
I was going to do the whole thing in black, but seeing that the case was ready, I realized it was a bit too much, so I got stuck again until I could decide the color --
I keep the back part Black as this is what you see when you look at the screen.
I tend to be retro brown when my wife suggests red with a total raspberry theme, which is inspired!
They are closest to the local DIY store is satin strawberries, which is close enough for me.
I really like the way this color is formed, it doesn\'t work for everyone, but it really grows on me, especially the glossy black panel on the front.
So far, the building is actually divided into three parts, and the red part in front is built in.
In the power supply, the middle part with Pi, buttons and circuit and the rear part with TV.
It has spread to four corners of the workshop and it is time to put this monster together.
The first attempt at assembly didn\'t go very well, everything was put together and there was a gap of about 3 cm between the front and back parts, so some parts obviously didn\'t fit.
It\'s a bit disappointing, but the only way to fix it is to go through the shedding volume per square inch as much as possible.
I sorted out all the internal cables, gave up the Ethernet connector as a compromise, and cut some plastic brackets with a rotating tool.
After a while, I connected the front and the middle parts tightly.
The latter part is a bigger problem.
The circuit board of the infrared sensor is actually 5mm too wide to be completely closed and attached directly to the bottom of the aluminum chassis.
I was thinking about retargeting the sensor, but after digging a hole for it and shortening the cable, it felt like a fudge.
The only thing for it is to cut down a piece of aluminum and it is not easy to tie everything together and there are cables everywhere.
May damage assembly or new assembly using hacksaw
So I bit the bullet and broke the rotating tool and the cutting plate.
The thickness of the aluminum is about 2mm, but after several minor worrying spark showers I have broken through.
In the case of a larger space, it is now installed together and a bit crowded, so I opened it to test it --
Everything is OK except TV, and that\'s what I \'ve been worried about --
It\'s always a bit tricky to re-
Using the circuit outside of their original housing, I believe I have broken a capacitor or something that will lead to the end of the project until a TV of the same size is found.
However, it turns out that the cable between the TV and the on/off button is very short, and with a little bit of welding it becomes life.
The front and back of the case are screwed together at the top and bottom, sandwiched in the middle.
Putting it together was a great relief, and at the end of the building I was convinced several times that I was too ambitious to give up altogether, but every big problem is solved by dividing it into smaller stages instead of rushing things.
This is the most complicated thing I have built so far, I am super
Happy with the results, but my next project will definitely be simpler!
I think I \'ve spent an hour on this every day since August, and to a large extent I find it really valuable --
I learned new skills along the way (
Because I must)
It\'s great to be able to master the amazing features of Pi --
Once I click Publish, my first job is to order a model a board for the next conversion in my list.
If you like this project and want to see more, you can check it on my website-
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Give you a new spec for some old technology!